I have a 91 honda civic hatchback with the stock motor just baught a b series vtech will it fit and what will?

WHAT WILL I NEED FOR IT TO WORK
I have a 91 honda civic hatchback with the stock motor just baught a b series vtech will it fit and what will?
yea b series are civic motors..i cant tell watt u need without telling me if its a b16? b18 ?b20? jdm? usdm?
I have a 91 honda civic hatchback with the stock motor just baught a b series vtech will it fit and what will?
Before I start, all 88-91 Civics are pre-On Board Diagnostics (OBD0). OK here goes...





First, is your car an Si, DX, or Std? Second, you must explain the B series VTEC you bought. B18C? B16A? B17A1? USDM or JDM? Is the engine set up for OBD0, OBD1 or OBD2? All of this matters when you have a swap. I will give you some detail on my current swap. Although mine isn't VTEC, the process is very similar.





PREPARATION


Note: These are for physical preparation. After taking the old D series out, but BEFORE putting the b-series in your car, MAKE A LARGE DENT IN THE FRAME ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE, IN THE AREA RIGHT UNDER A "POCKET". This area is located where your D-series alternator would sit. You must do this in order to allow for the B series alternator to fit without hitting the frame. Also, whatever you do, CUT THE FRONT ENGINE POST MOUNT OFF OF YOUR CROSS MEMBER. It is the post mount that is located right in front of the radiator. THE ENGINE WILL NOT FIT IF YOU LEAVE IT ON. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Also, take your radiator out before removing/ installing any engine. It weighs like, 10, 12 pounds dry. This is so you won't damage it. Also, buy swap mounts for your civic. They will only be 3, since you can't use the mount in front anymore, unless you get a custom cross member or weld a new mount post on. But Hasport sells them, and so do others, just do a general search on "swap mounts".





ENGINE AND OBD


I'm currently doing a B20B swap in my 89 Civic LX 4dr. That engine is originally OBD2, but my car is OBD0. I found a '92 Integra LS cylinder head+intake manifold (OBD1). Other than one hose that won't fit on the B20 coolant line (which I re-routed to a T-fitting with another hose), the LS intake works fine, since nearly all the sensors (except fuel injectors) fit. I have an OBD0 ECU (computer) from a '90 Integra LS, and bought an OBD0 Integra distributor. To make this all work, I actually bought a complete, uncut wire harness on eBay from a '90 Integra so I could use some of the extra wires and plugs, particularly for the distributor and fuel injectors. I also bought 4 remanufactured OBD0 injectors on eBay and an injector resistor box (from a '91 LS) so I won't burn out the ECU/injectors.





WIRING


After wiring the distributor and injectors, I had to de-pin some wires from the harness that connects to the ECU, and run wiring for my DPFI to MPFI setup, since I had only 2 injectors. I just left the old injector plugs hanging on my harness and did a completely independent wiring setup for the new 4 injectors. I also took apart my alternators for the B20 and old D15B2 to swap out the plug on the back side so it would fit like stock. I then put an 80-amp Battery fuse in to replace the 60-amp (since the B20 is rated at 90-95 amps). Fortunately, other than the amperage rating, both alternators have nearly identical designs. OK now, for VTEC, you have to wire for the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch. I can't remember off hand if there is anything else for VTEC, but I'll give you some useful links.





DRIVETRAIN


I bought an LS cable transmission, with a custom shift linkage for B series Civics from 88-91. I'm also running the 90-93 LS half shaft and 90-93 LS axles. In order for them to fit, I took the wheel bearing dust rings off each steering knuckle. MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE AXLES THAT CORRESPOND WITH THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT YOU HAVE. In other words, 90-93 LS axles need 90-93 LS int. shaft, 94-01 LS axles need 94-01 int. shaft., 94-01 GSR axles need 94-01 int. shaft, etc. Try to avoid JDM int. shaft, since it is not the same length as USDM.





KNUCKLES


Now, if you have a Std (non DX, LX, Si) then you have to buy steering knuckes from a DX, LX, Si, or even EX, but the EX is hard to find in junkyards. The reason for this is that the axles won't fit into the knuckles for a Civic Std.





RECOMMENDATIONS


I was very stubborn in doing the wiring because I wanted the wires to look clean, fit well, and not hang out. So learn how to do proper techniques in soldering, heat shrinking, and wire taping. I taped the wires the way Honda did at the factory, and they are tight, not loose. Leave a little slack for any new wires, though. and route them through another hole in your car's firewall, like I did. This way you won't have to take out all the wires to make it work.





HASPORT


I bought a custom shift linkage, but it doesn't fit like I thought. So I recommend going to Hasport's website and buying the combination linkage/ engine mounts. This way you won't have that kind of headache. I bought some used Hasport mounts on eBay, and they work great. I'm kicking myself for not getting their shift linkage though...





Other than having a high idle (due to some sort of intake vacuum leak), my car runs fine, no check engine light or LED code showing on the ECU. Below, I am going to give you some links that helped me the most.

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